Below is a basic starting point from our learned designer Daniel Holman:

  1. Clew – Have this tied down really tight to the boom
  2. Traveller – This needs to be adjusted so that the block (that runs on the dyneema traveller) is no further in the 300-400mm from the centreline in lighter airs. This should be eased out towards the hull as the breeze builds, to open the “exhaust” on the sail reducing power.
  3. Mast foot cup – The two smaller holes in the mast foot cup should be towards the front of the D-Zero, the large round hole should be to the aft.
  4. Mast chocks – All chocks except the approx 10mm thick ‘profiled’ chock should be aft of the mast (i.e. as upright as possible). As the wind builds lighter sailors may wish to add up to 10-15mm of chocks in front of the mast to give a bit of rake and help depower.
  5. Outhaul – Start with 150mm gap (a hand length) and pull on more as the breeze builds. Many sailors now leave the outhaul, except let out to two hands depth (300mm) on the downwind. The cunningham will flatten the sail and decrease the outhaul anyway.
  6. Kicker/Vang – Take out slack when block-to-block on the shore. Pull on more upwind, progressively more as the wind builds, there should be no issues getting under the boom. Let off to minimum (ie block-to-block) setting on downwind.
  7. Cunningham – Pull on progressively from 10-12kts as you start to feel overpowered. Overpowered is cannot hike flat out and keep D-Zero flat.

General hints and tips:

In the wind just keep her on her feet, maybe raise 150 or 200mm of dagger to help. Off wind let the controls off and tighten the toestrap for the reaches.

Steve Bolland’s Tuning Guide

Please download Steve’s views on how to tune the D-Zero, and as a former National Champion obviously knows his stuff…